Maison Martin Margiela, 1989–2009: The Private Archive Collection

004
Maison Martin Margiela,1988 -

Cigarette Shoulder Jacket, Autumn-Winter 1990

身幅 49cm, 着丈 71cm / Width 49cm, Length 71cm

STARTING BID : 
$1,900
CONDITION

Good condition.
Navy
Cotton 100%, Made in France

All lots are pre-owned vintage items sold "as is" in their current condition, and are not new. They may show signs of age and wear, including deterioration of materials, discoloration, fraying, and staining. Any descriptions of period, line, name, and condition represent our opinion, based on expert advice and records provided by the consignor, in accordance with customary practice in the trade of fashion and vintage garments.

All sales are final. No statutory cooling-off period or right of withdrawal applies to this sale under the Japanese Act on Specified Commercial Transactions. Returns, refunds, and cancellations for reasons attributable to the buyer (including differences in impression, size, or colour, and the effects of age or wear) cannot be accepted. By placing a bid, you agree to these conditions.

DESCRIPTION

Cigarette Shoulder

The Autumn-Winter 1990 collection was presented in an unexpected setting: a Paris post office. By staging the runway in an everyday public space and blurring the distinction between backstage and runway presentation, Martin Margiela challenged the conventions of fashion presentation, asserting that the act of creation itself was inseparable from the finished work. At a time when the creative process was typically concealed, this approach marked a radical departure from industry norms.

The show featured a simple runway made from plastic sheeting, where models emerged one after another amid loud music and an atmosphere charged with the energy of the street. The collection incorporated inexpensive ready-made garments, vintage clothing, and reconstructed pieces, exploring themes of anti-establishment, reuse, and the intersection of art and fashion—ideas that would become central to Margiela's practice.

Presented in this landmark collection, the Cigarette Shoulder Jacket is among the defining works of Maison Martin Margiela's early years. Distinguished by its sharply tailored "cigarette shoulders," the jacket's precise, architectural silhouette has become one of the House's most recognizable designs. Today, it is regarded as one of the House's iconic designs and is represented in the collections of major fashion museums and institutions worldwide.

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